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Our premium top quality longblock engines are fully remanufactured to the highest industry standards, and we pride ourselves on building engines using the latest in upgrades and improvements.

We use only the highest quality parts on all of our long block engines, and all engines are run tested prior to custom crating and shipping. 

ALL of our better than rebuilt, quality remanufactured engines have been hot run-tested at 180F on a SIM Tester at speed allowing us to check compression, test cylinder leak down, pump up the lifters, break in the piston rings, view oil flow and oil pressure to each bearing in the engine, impregnate the internal surfaces with zinc, verify valve timing and measure each cylinder's piston ring drag on the cylinder walls.

Engine Installation Information


454 Marine Turnkey


454-496 Stroker Marine Longblock


4.6 Cadillac Northstar Longblock

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Remanufactured engine links of a general  nature are above.  Remanufactured engine links below are for your specific application

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Please feel free to call 1-800-575-6998/1-443-451-5139, fax us at 1-815-461-7090 or e-mail remanufactured@comcast.net with your questions or comments. 
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Engine Installation Information
 


The Best Installer for Your Engine

Maybe the kid at K-Mart can change your watch battery but do you trust him to take your watch apart down to it's smallest component and put it back together perfectly and in a timely fashion?

A modern power train is just like a fine timepiece with hundreds of exactly manufactured parts.

Shops in the U.S. charge, on average, about $800-$1100 to install a longblock engine, which includes labor, break-in oil and filter, sealant, ten mile road test, computer scan, dial in and pressure testing. Shops in the East and metro areas charge more than shops in the South and and rural areas. Boat engine installations should run a little less in smaller boats with good accessibility, however Yankee marina mechanics have a tendancy to try to get a year's pay out of a summer.  Motorhome engine installations are priced much higher for a number of reasons, not the least of which is due to little or no guidance in the common labor manuals. While common sense would tell you that changing a 454 engine in a 1987 motorhome would take a similar time as a 1987 454 equipped GMC one ton truck, charges often run double for a motor home. That's about the going rate nationwide with the East and cities being a little higher with the South and rural areas a bit lower.

Ask potential shops if the mechanics are paid on commission. The incentives bring out the worst in them.
New car dealerships have programs that maximize profits by charging more for  labor and commonly stack on a ton of questionable additional parts.

For what it's worth, there are many mechanics incapable of performing skill level three work (like modern engine installations) in good shops. Look for a mechanic with some gray hair and ASE patches.

Remember to talk to the mechanic, because he is the guy working on your car, truck, boat, motorhome or equipment.

The Service Manager is just some smooth talking putz with a nice smile.


 


Quality Installation

How it should be done.

The old engine comes out…

 
It is then undressed down to
a long block.

When the old engine is removed and is swinging in the air, the  valve covers, timing cover, oil pan, intake manifold and brackets should be chemically stripped down to clean, bare metal in a sodium hydroxide jet stripper or oven baked and blasted.

Everything is painted so the freshly remanufactured engine will look good and be corrosion resistant.

Thee best sealant and gaskets should be used so there will be no leaks.

The mechanic should then inspect under the hood and around the engine for parts that could adversely affect the operation of the engine for the next year. If he finds anything he should write it on the work order and bring it to the customer's attention.

At that time he will quote a price for the part although the customer is not obligated to approve or purchase anything, the mechanic should just want to let you know what's going on under the hood. Most of the time there is no additional labor involved as the part is off already.  After the fresh engine is installed the cooling system must be pressure tested and the computer should be scanned for trouble codes.

The cause of the engine failure should ALWAYS be known so it doesn't fail again.

 

How to install a distributor in just about anything.

Finding number one cylinder

If you have a V8 or V6 engine, climb a tree directly over your engine compartment and look directly down on your engine. You will notice one side of the engine will be a bit more forward than the other, usually an inch or more. Number one cylinder is always farthest away from the flywheel.

You want to get the distributor rotor to point at the plug wire leading to each cylinder at the same time the piston is coming up to the top of that cylinder on the compression stroke. Unplug the little wires from the distributor and the spark plug from number one cylinder. Have a girlfriend wearing pink terrycloth short shorts starter click/crank the engine until your finger is just blown out of the spark plug hole. Connect the number 1 plug wire to the terminal in the distributor cap that the ignition rotor is pointing. Arrange the rest of the wires in order. Adjust timing. Miller time.

Distributor rotation

Unplug the little distributor wires. Take the cap off. Crank the engine over. Watch. Duh.

Firing order

If the number isn't cast into the intake manifold, pull a valve cover and rotate the engine while watching the intake rocker arms just opening, starting with the intake rocker arm for number one cylinder. Write them down legibly as they take turns opening. I've heard you can use ping pong balls or wads of toilet paper over the spark plug holes and even if it doesn't really work, it would be fun anyhow. Get the kids to help you. Send me the video.

If you happen to be particularly hip, you can figure out the firing order, distributer rotation, check your valve timing and install the distributor at the same time with the valve cover(s) off. 

Rotate the engine until the intake rocker arm for number one cylinder begins to open. Stop and drop the distributor in with the ignition rotor pointing away (180 degrees) from the distributer cap terminal for number one cylinder. At the moment your intake valve begins to open, your crankshaft damper mark should be between 30 and zero degrees on the ignition timing gauge on your timing cover. 

Don't try and figure it out, just do it. Don't even talk to anyone about it, you'll both just end up babbling about 180 out and drooling and maybe you'll have end up with a tic. 

Since you'll sue me for mental anguish I'll tell you. Intake valves all open up about one crankshaft revolution away from top dead center on the compression stroke. If you suspect that your timing belt has jumped a tooth you can check it because if the belt is installed correctly, the no.1 intake valve will open as the harmonic balancer mark comes past the timing tap on the timing cover. 

Almost all stock engine intake valves open between thirty and zero degrees before top dead center one crankshaft revolution away from top dead center on the compression stroke. 

The crankshaft rotates two times for every time your distributor and your camshaft(s) rotate.

 

The Buick engines are a pain to set timing on because of the brackets and pump hose and there is really only one way where the vacuum advance has a home and you don't short the harness out on a corner. So. Before you go to do this, grind one side of the distributor hold down washer so you don't have to take the bolt out each time. You just rotate it out of the way so you can pull the distributor out.
 

Remanufactured-Engines.com is a full capability automobile, boat, motorhome, industrial and truck engine machine and assembly operation.

Qualified technicians on staff with the latest in engine machining and test equipment give you the highest quality engines.

 Engines from late model automobiles, motorhomes, classic cars, light trucks, kit cars, industrial equipment and boats  are everyday projects here in a shop that has been doing the tough stuff the right way for thirty-eight years now.
The shop is set up for Just-In-Time manufacturing along Dr. Deming's Total Quality Control guidelines.
This modest web site covers a small fraction of the engines, parts and services that we can provide you at very competitive prices.
30 of the pages with databases on them will load more slowly than you and I would like but the added available information should reduce errors and raise efficiencies after the initial contact.
Please feel free to call 1-800-575-6998/1-443-451-5139, fax us at 1-815-461-7090 or e-mail remanufactured@comcast.net with your questions or comments.
Evenings and Weekends too!

We ship better than rebuilt remanufactured engines to Alabama, Alaska, American Samoa, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Guam, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Mississippi, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, North Dakota, Northern Mariana Islands, Ohio, Oklahoma, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Puerto Rico, Rhode Island, South Carolina, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, U.S. Virgin Islands, Utah, Vermont, Virginia, Washington, Washington D.C., West Virginia, Wisconsin, Wyoming, Alberta, British Colombia, Manitoba, New Brunswick, Newfoundland & Labrador, Northwest Territories, Nova Scotia, Nunavut, Ontario, Prince Edward Island, Quebec, Saskatchewan, Yukon,  - and the world. Please call for International ocean freight and air freight quotes.2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999 1998 1997  1996  1995  1994  1993  1992  1991  1990  1989  1988  1987  1986  1985  1984  1983  1982  1981  1980  1979  1978  1977  1976  1975  1974  1973  1972  1971  1970  1969  1968  1967  1966  1965  1964  1963  1962  1961  1960  1959  1958 
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1-800-575-6998/1-443-451-5139 ~ Evenings & Weekends too.