So, envision this: it’s 3 AM, you’re scrolling through engine listings like a desperate puppy looking for a new home—only it’s your beloved FR-S that’s in the doghouse now. You thought you could DIY this whole engine swap thing, right? Spoiler alert: you can’t! (Trust me, I learned that the hard way after a $700 mistake that involved way too many YouTube videos.) Anyway, picking a reman FA20 isn’t just a toss-up; there’s diagnostics, compatibility, and a million other things to take into account (who knew I’d care about TTY head bolts, right?). Let’s unpack this disaster together…
FA20 Overview and Fitment
The FA20 engine, oh boy, what a piece of work! Used in models from 2013 to 2016 like the Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ, it’s like that friend who shows up to the party—totally reliable but sometimes just… not what you expected (like, where’s the turbo?).
And let’s not even get started on ECU calibrations—seriously, it’s like trying to understand why your cat prefers knocking over your coffee instead of playing with its new toy—utterly perplexing yet oddly enchanting!
Years, trims, ECU calibrations
When considering the FA20 engine in the Scion FR-S, it’s essential to look at the different years and trims—because, honestly, one wrong sensor or mount choice can turn a potential performance beast into a sad, wheezing lawn ornament!
Imagine this: you’re at a car meet, engine swaps are flying around like confetti, and you’re left clutching your coffee, realizing your 2014 model needs a specific ECU calibration to even think about keeping up.
It’s enough to make you question your life choices, like that time you thought you could fix your cousin’s ’98 Honda with duct tape and optimism (spoiler: it didn’t end well).
Mounts, sensors, direct injection notes
Oh boy, let’s immerse ourselves in the FA20 engine, shall we? This powerhouse in the Scion FR-S (and buddies like the Subaru BRZ) boasts direct injection for that extra kick! And, listen, if you’re hunting for a scion frs engine for sale, remember those mounts and sensors are essential! Check the compatibility before you jump in!
| Component | Description | Importance |
|---|---|---|
| Engine Mounts | Specific to FA20 | Stability and alignment |
| Sensors | Fuel and performance gauges | Accurate readings |
| Direct Injection | Enhances efficiency | Boosts power and response |
Diagnostics Before Pulling the Old Engine
Before yanking that old engine out of the Scion FR-S, a little diagnostic TLC is a must!
Think of it like checking your fridge for expired food before hosting a dinner party—you don’t want any surprises, right?
Compression/leak-down, fuel trims, oil consumption
Before even thinking about yanking out that old engine, one must first face the grim reality—OBD-II codes!
Yes, those pesky little numbers that pop up like unwanted guests at a party, hinting that maybe, just maybe, it’s time for a replacement (who knew a P0302 could feel so personal?).
And if the fuel trims are off or oil consumption is through the roof, well, it’s like realizing your favorite shirt has a giant coffee stain; you can ignore it, but it’s not going away without some serious action!
OBD-II codes that suggest replacement
Engine diagnostics can feel like deciphering an ancient script written in a language only mechanics understand—like ancient Greek but with more grease and less philosophy!
OBD-II codes can be the telltale signs that scream “REPLACE ME!” Consider:
- P0300: Misfire madness!
- P0171: Lean, mean struggle machine!
- Excessive oil consumption
- Compression woes
Ignoring these? It’s like ignoring a fire alarm while cooking bacon!
Long Block vs Short Block
When it comes to choosing between a long block and a short block for the Scion FR-S, it’s like picking between a full Thanksgiving dinner and a sad, lonely turkey sandwich!
A long block can run upwards of $2,500 (or more—yikes!) and gives you everything you need, minus the kitchen sink, while a short block might be around $1,500 if you’re lucky, but hey, you better have some heads lying around or you’re just gonna end up with a fancy paperweight.
Cost, warranty, downtime trade-offs
When it comes to choosing between a long block and a short block for the Scion FR-S, the costs can feel like a punch to the gut—$4,999 for a long block and a mere $2,263.05 for a short block (not that I’m counting my pennies or anything).
Sure, the long block sounds fancy with all its bells and whistles, but then you might find yourself knee-deep in extra parts and repair bills, like finding out your “quick fix” is just a gateway to an engine rebuild nightmare!
And let’s not even talk about warranties—60 days for used engines, which is like getting a return policy on a pair of socks you wore for a month—who knew engine shopping could feel so much like a bad breakup?!
Core return checklist
Ah, the age-old dilemma of long block versus short block—kind of like choosing between a full buffet and a sad little snack!
- Long block costs more but saves time
- Short block is cheaper but requires more work
- Core-charge can sting if you mess up returns
- Warranty varies, so read the fine print!
Choose wisely, or you’ll end up paying for your mistakes…again!
Install Essentials
When it comes to installing a remanufactured FA20 engine in a Scion FR-S, the essentials really matter—like TTY head bolts, a timing set, and a water pump.
It’s like trying to bake a soufflé without eggs; you’re just asking for disaster!
Seriously, skipping these parts could lead to a catastrophic mess that no amount of duct tape can fix (trust me, I’ve tried!).
TTY head bolts, timing set, water pump
When it comes to TTY head bolts, timing sets, and water pumps, one might feel like a kid trying to put together a 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle—blindfolded and missing half the pieces!
The torque specs and clearances table is like the cheat sheet you wish you had back in high school, except you actually need it to avoid catastrophic engine failure (and yes, I learned that the hard way—think: $2,000 repair bill and a week of public transport).
Seriously, just remember: replacing those TTY bolts is essential; otherwise, you might as well be playing a game of “how much smoke can my car produce before it explodes?”
Torque specs and clearances table
Torque specs and clearances can feel like a cruel joke, like trying to balance a spoon on your nose while reciting the alphabet backwards—overwhelming and slightly embarrassing! But fear not, fellow engine enthusiasts! Here’s a handy table to make it all a bit clearer:
| Component | Torque Specs | Remarks |
|---|---|---|
| Head Bolts | 22 ft-lbs + 90° | TTY; replace each time! |
| Timing Set | Check clearances | Align or face doom! |
| Water Pump | 15 ft-lbs | New gasket, or leaks! |
Break-In & First Service
When it comes to breaking in your Scion FR-S, the first 500 miles can feel like an eternity—like waiting for the microwave to finish when you’ve got a burrito in hand!
It’s essential to pick the right oil (think API ratings) and sprinkle in some ZDDP goodness to keep everything running smoothly, or else you might as well be pouring expired ketchup in the engine!
Seriously, though, treat this phase like a first date: no full-throttle excitement just yet, and definitely no heavy loads—unless you want to scare off your engine before it even gets comfortable!
500 mi procedure, oil choices (API), ZDDP guidance
When it comes to breaking in that shiny new FA20 engine, one might think it’s as simple as pouring in some oil and calling it a day—HA!
Spoiler alert: it’s not. The reality is, without the right oil (think API-rated goodness, like 0W-20 or 5W-30, depending on whether it’s freakin’ snowing or sweltering), and a proper break-in procedure (like varying RPMs, which I still can’t seem to remember), you could be looking at a sad, sputtering engine that’s more useless than a chocolate teapot!
Oh, and don’t forget to keep those warranty papers and receipts, or you’ll feel like that friend who loses their phone at the bar…again!
Warranty paperwork and receipts
Ah, warranty paperwork! The bane of my existence! It’s essential for your reman FA20 engine, especially with those warranty-terms.
Keep the receipts! They’re like gold!
- 30-day warranty on internal parts
- Excludes external components and mods
- Follow break-in procedures strictly
- Select API-approved oils with ZDDP!
Seriously, don’t toss those papers. You’ll regret it! Trust me—it’s like losing your favorite coffee mug!
FAQs
In the world of the Scion FR-S, questions about the FA20 engine often come up, like whether it needs ECU reprogramming, which is as essential as figuring out if you left the oven on (spoiler: I once burned a pizza that way!).
Then there’s the nightmare of a cracked core—what does that even mean?
And let’s not forget the typical warranty; it’s like trying to remember where you parked at the mall—confusing and often left to chance!
Does FA20 need ECU reprogramming?
So, does the FA20 engine really need ECU reprogramming? Well, here’s the scoop!
If you’re swapping in an identical reman FA20, you’re in the clear—no reprogramming needed! It’s like putting on the same pair of shoes, right?
BUT, if you’re thinking of adding a supercharger or turbo (fancy upgrades, huh?), then yes, you’ll need to reprogram that ECU! Think of it as a personality makeover for your engine—gotta make sure it performs well, like a star on stage!
And hey, some folks swear they feel a difference after reprogramming, even if it wasn’t strictly necessary.
Always consult a pro before diving in, because, let’s face it, we’ve all made questionable choices—like wearing socks with sandals!
What happens if the core is cracked?
Imagine this: you’re cruising down the road, feeling like a champion, when suddenly you hear a sound that makes your stomach drop—like the universe just decided to dropkick your hopes and dreams right into the gutter!
If the core of your long-block engine is cracked, brace yourself for a sad saga of coolant leaks and fiery tears. Overheating? Check! Engine failure? Double-check! And don’t even get me started on the hit to performance.
You’ll need a complete engine replacement or pricey repairs—think thousands, not hundreds! Plus, if you messed up the installation, good luck with that warranty claim; it’s gone faster than your last diet resolution!
How long is the typical warranty?
A typical warranty for used performance engines, such as the infamous Scion FR-S FA20, is a mere 30 days from the moment you awkwardly haul that engine home like a long-lost puppy (only to realize later it might have rabies).
Yes, you heard it right! THIRTY DAYS!
But wait—used replacement engines get a slightly more generous 60 days!
However, if you’ve decided to tinker with the short-block or modify it in any way, congratulations—you’ve just voided that warranty!
And don’t even think about filing a claim without a mechanic’s report!